ACQUIRING A
GOLDEN RETRIEVER
Excerpted from AN
INTRODUCTION TO THE GOLDEN RETRIEVER
by The Golden Retriever Club of America, Inc. Education Committee
WRITTEN BY:
EDITED BY:
ILLUSTRATED BY:
With thanks to Cynthia Morse and the Bull Terrier Club of
America, the Doberman Pinscher Club of America, the Soft-Coated
Wheaten Terrier Club of America, and several GRCA member clubs
for some of their ideas and material.
© GRCA, INC. 1985, 1992, 1998, 2003
August, 1985.
Reprinted February, 1988
Revised, Reprinted October, 1992
Revised, Reprinted March, 1998
Revised, Reprinted September, 2003
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Introduction
This booklet is intended for prospective
owners of Golden Retrievers, and those who
have their first Golden. It is intended to
provide only the very BASICS. A list of books
with additional information on a variety
of subjects is presented in Appendix B.
You may be interested in a Golden Retriever
for a variety of reasons . . . as a pet,
a hunting dog, an obedience competitor, a
show dog, or a combination of these things.
Whatever your objective, you, as the dog's
owner, will be responsible for the care and
training that will enable your Golden to
fulfill its potential.
If you want a watchdog, you shouldn't
get a Golden Retriever. Although its size
and initial barking might deter an intruder,
the typical Golden is adaptable, friendly
to everyone, gentle (although physically
active), and committed to carrying things
around in its mouth... including the intruder's
flashlight.
If you
are a fastidious housekeeper (or are married
to one), you shouldn't get
a Golden Retriever. Most Goldens shed somewhat
throughout the year, and quite profusely
in the spring, in spite of diligent daily
brushings. Also, most Goldens love to get
wet. If there is water on your property your
Golden will be wet, and possibly muddy, a
frustrating amount of time.
If you want a one-man dog, prefer cats to
dogs, or aren't home much, you shouldn't
get a Golden Retriever. Goldens are very
people-oriented, and aren't happy
alone in a kennel.
Most people prefer to get a young puppy and
raise it themselves. This can be very rewarding,
but also time consuming and somewhat frustrating.
Other people prefer a dog that is out of
puppyhood and has already been civilized. This
booklet will discuss the pros and cons of
both, and how to select and care for a Golden
Retriever of any age.
Our hope is that this booklet will help
you select, train, care for and enjoy
your Golden
Retriever.
What Is A
Golden Retriever?
The Golden Retriever was developed in Scotland
and England in the late 19th century
for the purpose of retrieving
wildfowl on land and water. Its physical characteristics
and its willing, adaptable, trainable nature have also
fitted it for usefulness in many other endeavors. The
Golden Retriever is a natural dog needing
no surgical
alteration to ear or tail, and no exotic grooming, to
keep it looking characteristic of the
breed (as opposed to some
terriers, poodles, etc.). The Golden Retriever has a
normal canine structure without distortions
of leg, jaw or tail,
and is characteristically a healthy, sturdy, adaptable
animal. Basic grooming for a Golden Retriever should
take no more than 20 to 30 minutes a
week.
The mature male Golden Retriever is ideally
23-24 inches tall at the shoulder, and
weighs 65 to 75 pounds; bitches,
21 1/2 to 22 1/2 inches, and 55 to 65 pounds. Variances
of an inch in height either way are permissible, though
less desirable. The build is sturdy and muscular, but
neither massive like a Newfoundland nor as refined
as a Setter.
The head is broad, with short pendant ears, and a kindly
expression. The coat, which is one of the most characteristic
features of the breed, is a double coat with
a thick weather-proof topcoat and a dense, soft undercoat.
There are featherings of longer hair on the backs of
the legs, on the neck and chest, and on the tail. The
adult
coat may range from light to dark golden, and a golden
body color with lighter feathering is quite common.
A predominant color of either ivory or
setter-red, or white
markings
on the head, feet or chest, are not desirable in the
show ring, but have no effect on the dog's usefulness
for work or companionship. The physical characteristics
of the Golden Retriever are described fully in the
Breed Standard, contained in this book.
Choosing A
Golden Retriever
What are you looking for in a Golden Retriever? A beautiful
animal? A good family pet? A good hunting dog? A good
obedience worker? There are Golden Retrievers that
fit each description,
and some that fit all of these descriptions. The Golden
Retriever Club of America has hundreds of members whose
interest in the breed has led them to develop the potential
of the Golden Retriever in each of these areas. Goldens
also work as guide dogs for the blind, as narcotics detection
dogs, as tracking dogs, appear in commercials and advertisements,
and are one of the preferred breeds of
veterinarians. There is no question that the Golden Retriever
is a versatile and remarkable breed.
Before you even start looking at litters of puppies,
take time to learn about the breed. Attend dog shows
and field
trials, Golden Retriever club meetings, and local kennel
club meetings, and talk with and question Golden owners.
They are proud of their dogs and are happy to share
their enthusiasm.
Look around. It is much easier to find a puppy
mill or backyard breeder that knows
and cares little about the welfare of the breed than
it is to find a reputable breeder. Have patience
and never
buy impulsively . . . all puppies are cute. The Golden
Retriever Club of America and many of its local member
clubs can supply you with a list of conscientious
breeders in your area who will help you in your search
even
though they may not have anything for sale themselves.
Read and REREAD the section of this booklet on health
and hereditary problems. You want a sound, healthy
puppy who
will grow up to be a sound, healthy representative
of the breed. Careful selection now will save heartache
and money
later. Poor quality puppies are produced by people
who
breed their pets just to have a litter, or by profit
seekers who give little thought to quality, looks
or temperament
in the puppies they produce. Many of these indiscriminately-bred
puppies have health problems, poor temperaments,
and/or breed disqualifications. Remember, you are
choosing
a companion for the next ten to fifteen years.
PRICE
A poorly-bred, badly-raised puppy, no matter how
cheap, is NO BARGAIN! Chances are that the
parents were not
screened appropriately for hereditary defects,
that the puppies
have had little, if any, veterinary care, and
that the pups were not given the proper socialization
and TLC
that is needed to raise a healthy litter of
Golden puppies. You should expect to pay a reasonable
price for a sound,
healthy, properly raised pet from good parentage
sold on
a spay/neuter contract and/or AKC Limited Registration.
Show and breeding prospects may well be more
expensive.
Specific prices vary depending on the area
of
the country.
SEX
Temperamentally, there is little difference between
the sexes in Goldens. Neither sex is harder
to housetrain, and both are equally intelligent
and affectionate.
Both
are excellent with children, and both make
excellent companions. Problems of aggressiveness,
which males of other breeds
may exhibit, rarely occur in the Golden.
Sex-related behavior such as mounting and marking may
be
exhibited by some male
Goldens, particularly if other males are
present or if the male has been used for breeding.
Neutering
a
male
before a year of age will not only help
to alleviate these problems,
but will also eliminate the risk of testicular
cancer and lower the risk of prostate problems.
Since there
is no
responsible reason NOT to neuter a bitch
(unless she was bought from a serious hobby breeder
specifically for showing
or breeding), the estrous cycle in the
female need not be a consideration.
Choosing A
Reputable Breeder
Choosing a reputable breeder is very important. Since
it would be almost impossible for you to know what
the puppy
you are buying will grow up to be physically and emotionally,
you must rely on your faith in the person from whom you
are purchasing your puppy. There are three options open
to you in choosing this person.
PET SHOP or DEALER.
The worst
possible choice. The puppies are poorly bred and raised.
They are thought
of as merchandise
to be sold for a high profit. The high profit results
because little has been put into the breeding or
the care of the
puppies. Many are sickly. Pet shops rely heavily
on impulse buying, which is no way to choose an addition
to the
family.
BACKYARD BREEDER.
Also a poor choice. This is
the person who owns a pet Golden and thinks it
would be
fun to
have puppies, that it would be a great experience
for the children, or that the bitch should be
bred once
before she is spayed. Even worse, perhaps it's
being done just to make money. Usually this breeder
knows little about the standard or history of
the breed, and
still less about proper care. The backyard breeder
is not aware of breed problems, and doesn't care.
This person's only goal is to produce puppies,
and when
the fun is over, to sell them quickly.
SERIOUS HOBBY BREEDER.
The very best choice.
The serious and dedicated hobby breeder regards
his/her
dogs as even
more than a hobby, although the true fancier
does not expect to make a profit. When someone
is involved
in
dogs for
the enjoyment of each individual animal, for
participating in any of the many aspects of
dogsport, and
for producing the finest animals possible,
the results are SUPERIOR. The best breeders acknowledge
responsibility
for each and every puppy produced, and stand
behind every dog they have bred.
Unequivocally, your choice should be from the
ranks of the SERIOUS HOBBY BREEDER. It is
an interesting
fact
that poor quality puppies from pet shops
and backyard breeders
are often sold for the same price and sometimes
even more than those purchased from the experienced
hobby
breeder.
The question is: How does one recognize the
responsible breeder? Presented below is a
list of requirements
the breeder should meet before you consider
purchasing a
puppy. Don't be afraid to confront the breeder
with these requirements. It is your right,
and you can
rest assured
that the dedicated breeder will respond positively
and with pride.
The breeder should:
- Belong to the Golden Retriever
Club of America, a local Golden Retriever club,
or an all-breed
club. Ideally
he/she
should belong to all three; however,
sometimes this is impossible. The reason for
this requirement is
that this
sort of participation indicates
depth of
involvement. This breeder is exposed
to other points of
view, learns more
about the breed and modern breeding
practices, and is kept up to date on AKC rules
and regulations.
- Be involved in showing his/her dogs
in the breed ring, the obedience
ring, in hunting
tests/field trials, agility,
tracking, or in a combination
of any of these. The reason for this requirement
is that it
means that
the breeder
is not working in a vacuum. The
breeder
who does not participate has
no idea how good
his/her
dogs
really
are, and is deprived
of the opportunity to share information
and ideas
with others. Showing provides
the competition which encourages
breeders to produce better dogs.
The breeder who competes wants to prove how good
his/her
dogs are
and is putting
his/her breeding program on the
line. This
breeder is not relying on just
a pedigree to indicate
quality. Even
if
you do not want a competition
animal, you deserve a companion that is the end
result
of a carefully
planned
litter;
a puppy which received the same
care as a potential champion. The breeder who competes
in organized
activities is known
by others and has a reputation
to uphold.
This breeder will be as careful
and honest
in selling
you your
pet puppy
as in selling show stock.
- Be able to show you a clean
environment; healthy, well-socialized
puppies; and
a dam with a good
temperament. You should
avoid: a) shy, whimpering,
fearful puppies; b) puppies with dull
coats, crusty or running
eyes,
signs of
diarrhea, rashes or sores on
their abdomens; c) signs of
neglect, such as lack of water, pans of
uneaten
food, and dirty conditions;
d) a breeder who will
sell a
puppy under
seven weeks of age, as early
separation from the dam and
littermates can be very detrimental both
psychologically
and physically.
- Give you a period of time
in which to allow you to
have the puppy examined
by
a veterinarian
to determine
its state
of health, so that both of
you are assured as to the
condition of the
puppy at the
time of
sale.
If a problem
should arise,
it can then be quickly resolved.
- Provide you with a record
of the dates and types
of vaccinations and
de-worming
done,
feeding instructions,
a 3-to 5-generation pedigree,
and an AKC registration
application to apply
for registration
of the
puppy in your own name
with the American Kennel Club
(AKC). Sometimes the registration
application is not available
at the time
you take your puppy home.
If this is the case, have
the
breeder state on a dated,
signed receipt of payment
that the
application will
be sent to
you as soon
as possible.
The registered names and
AKC numbers of both parents,
date
of birth of the
litter,
and
puppy's color
and sex should be indicated.
You can then contact AKC
with complete
information should there
later be a problem with
the papers.
- Give you written instructions
on feeding, training
and care. This booklet
was designed
in part for
that purpose.
There are other materials
that are useful; some
are listed
in Appendix
B.
- Be able to show you
proof that both the
sire and dam
of the litter have
had their
hips X-rayed,
and
evaluated
as normal by the Orthopedic
Foundation for Animals
(OFA) and/or PennHIP;
have had their
elbows X-rayed
and evaluated
as normal by the Orthopedic
Foundation for Animals
(OFA) or a board-certified
veterinary
radiologist:
have had
their hearts examined
by a board-certified
veterinary
cardiologist;
and have had their
eyes examined
by a board-certified
veterinary ophthalmologist
within the last
12-18 months. The breeder
should also be willing
to answer
your questions about
any
other possible
hereditary problems,
including but not limited
to seizures, hypothyroidism,
and skin problems or
allergies.
- Ask you what kind
of dogs you have
had in the
past,
and what happened
to them;
whether or not
you have
a fenced yard; and
whether or not the
dog will
be allowed to be
a house dog and a
member of the family. Sincere
breeders will
be a bit hesitant
to sell you
a puppy until
they know more about
you, what
you are looking for
in a dog,
and
what lifestyle
you have in mind for your
dog. Having
the
best interest
of the puppy
at heart, reputable
breeders will take
great pains
to place
puppies properly
the first time around.
A returned puppy
is a traumatic experience
for all concerned,
so the
breeder who
is always willing
to accept a puppy back
will
try to
make certain
that a Golden is
the breed for
you.
- Be able to give
you references:
the names
of people who have
purchased puppies
in the
past, the names
of other breeders,
and the veterinarian
who
provides care for
the breeder's dogs.
- Provide some
sort of written
contract and/or
conditions
of
sale. Any
warranty
of quality
or health of
the dog, and any warranty
against
development
of hereditary
problems or show-ring disqualifications
in
an animal intended
for showing or
breeding, should
be in writing.
The
warranty should
be absolutely
explicit and a signed
copy should
be provided to
each
party.
Both pedigree
and registration
papers
are provided
by reputable
breeders at NO
extra
charge. The
practice of
charging extra
for papers
is forbidden
by the
AKC, and should
be reported.
This should
not be
confused with
withholding papers
until the
dog has been
spayed or neutered,
which
is how puppies
not
purchased
for showing/breeding
are sold by many
reputable
breeders.
- Make it clear
that his/her
responsibility
continues
long after
you have taken your
puppy
home,
in fact
as long as
the dog is alive.
Many dedicated
breeders
will ask that
the dog be
returned to
them, or placed
with new owners
who
meet their
approval, if ever
for any
reason you
are unable
to keep
the dog. They'll
cheerfully
be available for
advice
whenever needed,
and can ease
your way over
many rough
spots.
If your breeder
meets all of
these requirements
you
are
in good hands.
If you find
yourself with
a negative
response
to any of these
requirements,
think
twice and discuss
the situation
with someone
else. DON'T
be impulsive
and DO ask
questions.
Picking Your Puppy
Once you have found a breeder that you trust it's
time to think about a puppy again. Take your time. You
might have to wait weeks or even months for the right
litter to be whelped, and it can be well worth the
wait. If you
are fortunate, and more than one litter is available
at the same time in your area, you can compare puppies,
pedigrees
and parents. You may be asked to put a deposit of $100
or more on a puppy from the litter of your choice if
the puppies are not yet seven weeks old. Good litters
seldom
go begging, and it is not uncommon for a choice litter
to be completely spoken for by the time the puppies are
seven weeks of age and ready to go to their new homes.
Not all litters are created equally, not even well bred
litters. Some litters will be genetically predisposed
for a higher energy level and others for a lower energy
level.
Some litters will have a tendency to be more dominant
and others more submissive. There will be differences
among
individual puppies in the same litter. Discuss with
the breeder the type of dog you are looking for and
how you
expect it to fit into your lifestyle. Will this be
a companion for very small children, a hunting companion,
or are you
considering competing in obedience or conformation?
Expect
the breeder to ask several questions in order to determine
if a certain litter will be an appropriate match for
you. A good breeder is concerned about the puppy's
welfare and wants the puppy to be carefully matched
to his new
home. The perfect home for one puppy might not be the
best
match for a different puppy.
Don't be surprised if you are not permitted to pick
your puppy. Often the breeder does this for you.
The breeder
spends a great deal of time with the puppies and
will be in a position to observe their individual temperaments.
Many breeders do temperament tests on the puppies
in
their
litters. These tests, combined with their daily interaction
with the litter, help the breeder match each individual
puppy to the best home. If you have a breeder that
is knowledgeable and caring enough to want to find
the puppy
that is the
perfect match for you, let them do their work. They
will do a better job selecting your puppy than you
will be
able to do by evaluating a litter for 15 minutes.
Almost all Golden puppies are appealing, but you
need to look for more than cuteness. They should
be sturdy in build with straight legs. They should
feel firm and muscular, and be squirmy and active
at first
when picked up, but be willing to relax and accept
being held
and cuddled for a short time. Coats should be clean
and thick; eyes, nose and ears free of discharge
or irritation;
and the puppies should not be pot-bellied. Gums
should be pink, not pale. Dark pigment around the eyes,
with black nose and feetpads is preferred, although
this
might not
be important to you in a dog that is to be a companion
only. White markings are not correct in a show
or
breeding animal, but again, this does not affect
the puppy's
usefulness otherwise. Golden puppies are born much
lighter than their adult color; even a very pale
colored puppy
will probably become a good golden shade if the
ears show the proper gold color.
If the breeder offers you several puppies to select
from, take each of the puppies you are considering
away from
the rest of its littermates and observe its reaction
to its environment and to you. Puppies at seven
to eight weeks
of age should be willing to explore their environment,
and although perhaps a little bit cautious at
first, they should investigate new objects and be fairly
self-assured. Speak to the puppy and see if it
will follow you as
you move away. Roll a ball or other toy to see
if it has
the
instinct to watch, chase, carry and possibly
even
return to you with the ball. Some puppies are
slower to develop
the retrieving instinct than others, but you
should not consider a puppy who does not show some
interest
in or
awareness of a moving object. See if the puppy
exhibits the type of personality you would want
to live with.
Perhaps the bold, brash puppy that never stops
getting into things
would be too much for you, and the more easy-going
fellow who's agreeable and a bit more receptive
to your
guidance would be a better choice.
While observing the puppies, observe the dam
as well. Any shyness or aggression on her part
is
probably
indicative of a poor temperament, and the puppies
might well inherit
these undesirable traits. A Golden Retriever
bitch should be watchful and patient with her
puppies
and should be
happy to show them to you. If the sire is available,
ask
to meet him too.
Considering the
Older Dog
If you aren't prepared to go through the trials
and training of a baby puppy, an older puppy or even
a mature dog can be a good alternative, especially
in households
in which the family pet may have to spend much of the
day unsupervised. Goldens are very adaptable, and a
Golden
Retriever of any age with a good temperament can become
a member of the family in a very short time. There are
many reasons that older dogs are available. Breeders
often hold a puppy until it is old enough to determine
its show
or breeding potential; a brood bitch that has been bred
once or twice is retired; or circumstances change and
the breeder is helping someone place a much-loved pet
they
have had to part with. The reasons are myriad, but whatever
they may be, the grown dog is available. He is housebroken,
knows many commands, and has formed many behavior patterns.
If the dog has been loved and well taken care of, he
will continue to give love and devotion to his new
owners because
A PROPERLY RAISED GOLDEN LOVES AND NEEDS PEOPLE. Never
be hesitant to take an outgoing, good-natured older dog
into your home. Although it may be confused at first
and cause a few problems, patience, consistency, and
reassurance
are the key words. The dog's self-confidence will
return, and it will adapt readily to your routine.
Try to find out all that you can about the older dog
that you are considering, so that you can determine
if his temperament
is compatible with yours. Learn as much as possible
about his habits, daily routine, likes and dislikes,
diet and
past history. It is important that all family members
meet the dog before its adoption, and agree that this
is the
dog they want.
It is best to acquire the dog when the household member
with primary responsibility for the dog's care and
training will be at home full time for the first
few days. Time must be taken to make clear that the
dog
knows where
it is to sleep, relieve itself, where and when it
will eat, and what it can and cannot do in the house.
In
short, it has to learn the routine it will be following
and
what is expected of it.
Give the dog a month or so to settle in to its new
environment and gain confidence in its new owners
before beginning
formal obedience training. Even if the dog has
had some obedience training, attending class is an
excellent
way
to brush up on its training and help you understand
its responses and personality more completely.
You'll enjoy working together.
If you rescue a mistreated or abandoned Golden
Retriever through a Golden Retriever Club Referral/Rescue
Service
or a humane society and give it your affection,
it will reward you with eternal love and gratitude.
These dogs
may well be of unknown background and bring you
a
few more problems than those with a more favorable
history,
but
the rewards can be great.
Hereditary Problems
The vast majority of dogs of all breeds (as well as mixed
breeds) can live long, healthy lives if given proper
care and routine veterinary attention. Nevertheless,
any dog can fall victim to a wide range of acquired
problems, just as humans can, that range from acne
to viral diseases,
from allergies to cancer and so on. In addition, each
breed of dogs has its own particular hereditary problems;
some minor, some impairing, and some possibly fatal.
Some may show a very strong hereditary basis and others
not much more than a tendency to run in families.
The Golden Retriever is no exception and unfortunately
the
problems multiply as the breed continues to increase
in popularity and there is an increase in indiscriminate
breeding. Failure to screen for hereditary problems
before breeding often results in the doubling up of
unfavorable genes, and the results are distressing
for
the buyer and dog alike. The following, while not all-inclusive,
are some of the more common hereditary problems that
may be encountered in Goldens.
HIP DYSPLASIA
The term hip dysplasia means poor formation of the
hip joint, and describes a developmental disease
in young dogs
of many different breeds. Unsound hip joints are
a common problem in the larger breeds, and hip dysplasia
can be
a serious problem in any dog that is to be trained
for a demanding activity.
Hip dysplasia is an inherited defect which is believed
to have a polygenic mode of inheritance. The expression
of this genetic defect can be modified by environmental
factors, such as changes in nutrition, exercise and
trauma. The degree of heritability is moderate in
nature, meaning
that the formation of the hip joints can also be
modified by environmental factors such as overnutrition,
excessively
rapid growth, and certain traumas during the growth
period of the skeleton. As with any quantitative
trait, hip
joint conformation can range from good to bad with
all degrees
in between.
Signs of hip dysplasia cannot be detected in the
newborn puppy, but usually appear in the rapid
growth period
between four and nine months of age. Signs of the
disease can vary
widely from slight irregularities of gait to crippling
lameness. Improvement or even apparent disappearance
of lameness can occur as the dog matures, as a
result of the
joint stabilizing, inflammation subsiding, and
musculature strengthening. However, the dysplastic
dog will usually
develop some degree of arthritis later in life.
X-rays should be sent to either the Orthopedic
Foundation for Animals (OFA) or to PennHIP Analysis
Center (PennHIP)
for diagnostic evaluation. While the two evaluation
procedures differ somewhat, GRCA recognizes the
validity of both
and encourages all breeders of Golden Retrievers
to determine the conformation health of the hips
for any
potential
breeding
animal.
The dysplastic dog should not be used for breeding,
but may well lead a long, happy, useful life.
During the
acute phase of the disease, your veterinarian
may suggest rest
and supportive care. Moderate and regular exercise,
control of weight, and perhaps anti-inflammatory
drugs, are helpful
in the management of arthritis associated with
hip dysplasia in the older dog. Many Goldens
with hip
dysplasia will
show no outward signs at all, until perhaps
7 or 8 years of age when muscle tone decreases
and arthritis
and wear
and tear on the joint become more noticeable.
Surgical procedures are also available to alleviate
the
pain of hip dysplasia.
Goldens and other breeds of retrievers often
seem to have high pain thresholds, and do
not show signs
of
pain when
other breeds might be very uncomfortable.
An X-ray does not always show you how your dog
feels, as
many dysplastic
Goldens are completely unaware that they
have a problem!
ELBOW DYSPLASIA
Like hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia (ED)
is a developmental disease of young dogs,
although
symptoms can appear
at any age. While not as common as hip
dysplasia, ED is
estimated to affect approximately 1 in
10 Goldens. Also like hip
dysplasia, many affected dogs have no
symptoms at all, yet can pass more serious disease
on to their
offspring.
For other affected dogs, symptoms range
from mild stiffness and discomfort, to crippling
disease.
Elbow dysplasia is an inherited disease
believed to have a polygenic (multiple
genes) mode
of inheritance that
may be modified by the environment.
The most studied detrimental
environmental influence is rapid growth
during early puppyhood, usually a result
of over-nutrition
and
over-feeding.
Elbow dysplasia can be difficult to
diagnose in its early stages, or
in very mildly
affected dogs.
Most
general
practitioner veterinarians can take
the necessary X-rays, but few have
the equipment or expertise to evaluate
the films. Prior to breeding, adult
Goldens should
have
elbow X-rays
submitted to the Orthopedic Foundation
for Animals (OFA) for diagnostic
evaluation, and only dogs certified
clear of elbow dysplasia should be
bred. For
more information
and for data on
the prevalence of elbow dysplasia
in Golden Retrievers, go
to http://www.offa.org.
Although dogs with ED should not
be bred, many lead normal, happy
lives
with minimal
discomfort.
Dogs
with mild symptomatic
disease are sometimes managed by
supportive care such as moderate
exercise, weight
control, and
anti-inflammatory drugs. There
are surgical procedures which may help
dogs with severe disease.
EYE DISEASE
Hereditary cataracts are a common
eye problem in Golden Retrievers.
( Cataract
is defined
as any
opacity within the lens of
the eye.) At least one type of hereditary
cataract
appears
at
an early
age in affected
Goldens, and while these may
or may not interfere with the dog's
vision,
some
do progress into
severe or
total loss of vision. There
are also non-hereditary cataracts
which sometimes
occur, and examination
by a board-certified
veterinary ophthalmologist
is necessary to determine if the cataract is
or is not of
concern from
a genetic standpoint.
If there is any question, the
dog is certainly not to be recommended
for
breeding.
A few families of Goldens carry
genes for Central Progressive
Retinal Atrophy
(CPRA)
which is
progressive deterioration
of the light-receptive area
(retina) of the eye, and
may result in
complete blindness
at a fairly
young
age. There
are also other eye defects,
such as retinal dysplasia,
that prevent
consideration
of a dog as a breeding
animal.
Eyelid and eyelash problems
also may occur in the breed;
some
have an hereditary
basis,
and
some
are due to
other factors. Entropion
and ectropion are the turning
in
or
turning out of the eyelids.
Trichiasis and distichiasis
involve eyelashes
or hairs rubbing
on and irritating
the eye. Surgery may be
needed to correct these problems,
and while it is a fairly
simple procedure,
such dogs should not be
bred and are ineligible to be
shown under AKC
rules.
Examination of breeding
stock should be done
annually, until at least
eight years
of age
and preferably
longer, as hereditary
eye problems can develop at
varying
ages.
The examination should
be made by a board-certified
veterinary
ophthalmologist
who has the
special equipment and
training needed to properly examine
the dog's eyes.
Dogs that have been examined
by a board-certified
veterinary ophthalmologist
and found
to be free of hereditary
eye disease can be
registered with the the Canine Eye
Registration Foundation
(CERF). CERF assigns
the
dog a number which,
when properly understood,
helps
to make
eye clearances
more meaningful. For
example, CERF
GR
1857/89-102 means that
this dog was the 1,857th
Golden
Retriever to be
registered with CERF;
that the most recent
examination
indicating
this dog free of hereditary
eye disease
was done in 1989; and
that the dog was 102
months
old
at the time
of the
examination.
Dogs with hereditary
eye disease should
not be used
for breeding.
HEART DISEASE
Hereditary heart disease,
most commonly Subvalvular
Aortic
Stenosis (SAS),
is known to occur
in the Golden Retriever
breed. All prospective
breeding animals
should be examined
by a board certified
veterinary
cardiologist. If
a murmur is detected
through auscultation
(listening
with a stethoscope),
additional diagnostic
tests are available
and may be
recommended. However,
even if the results
are
negative,
this does not
rule out heart
disease, as some
mild but hereditary
forms may be undetectable
except
on necropsy.
Animals with
hereditary heart
disease should not be used
for
breeding.
There are additional
topics such as
hypothyroidism,
seizure disorders
and
other orthopedic
disorders for
which routine screening
of Golden Retrievers
is not performed.
This
may be because
acceptable examination
standards have
not yet
been developed
or
because the incidence
of the
defect
is
low in the Golden
Retriever breed.
Potential buyers
should
feel free to
ask the breeder about
these,
or any subjects
of concern
to them. The
exchange
of such
information
is an expected
and customary
practice.
Breeding Your
Golden Retriever
Breeding is not for beginners. It is as hard to do well
as it is easy to do. Until you can satisfy the requirements
that the serious hobby breeder should meet, as presented
in the section of this booklet entitled Choosing
A Reputable Breeder, you will be doing the breed
an injustice if you have a litter of puppies.
CONSIDER YOUR MOTIVES
If you think that:
- HAVING PUPPIES WOULD BE FUN;
it is also very time consuming and demanding. By four
weeks of age a Golden
litter of
eight, twelve or possibly even fourteen puppies
is active, dirty, noisy and potentially destructive.
Illness
or
death of the dam or puppies can be expensive,
emotional . . .
and no fun at all.
- IT WOULD BE EDUCATIONAL FOR THE CHILDREN; so would
a litter of hamsters. Bitches do not whelp
at your convenience, and the children are often
in school or
in bed at the
time
of delivery. Care of the pregnant bitch, and
properly raising and socializing puppies, is work
for a responsible
adult.
- IT WOULD HELP US GET BACK OUR INVESTMENT;
you may find that the rate of return is very
low. Stud fee,
veterinary fees, advertising, and the daily
care and feeding of
a
litter are very expensive. You may only be
able to sell three or four puppies out of
a litter of ten or
twelve;
even experienced breeders sometimes have
difficulty selling puppies.
- IT WOULD HELP FULFILL THE DOG'S NEEDS;
you are anthropomorphizing. While the instinct
for procreation
is strong, the dog has no conscious knowledge
of what it is missing, no regrets and no
guilt feelings. Spaying
or
neutering will remove the instinct and
the problems often associated with it, such as
wandering and marking.
Pregnancy
not only contributes nothing to a bitch's
health, but sometimes causes problems.
A spayed bitch
cannot be accidentally bred, and will not
be subject to the
uterine
infections common in older, intact females.
- IT WILL IMPROVE THE BITCH'S TEMPERAMENT
IF SHE IS BRED; you are wrong. No animal
whose temperament
needs improving should be bred in the
first place, since temperament
is most often the result of hereditary
factors. And while raising a litter will
not only
NOT make an improvement
in the dam's temperament, it will also
probably result in a litter of unsatisfactory
puppies
who have been imprinted by their unstable
dam. There is also
the
possibility
that the bitch will be an unsatisfactory
mother, necessitating much more work
on your part.
CONSIDER YOUR RESOURCES
Raising a litter is a demanding project.
Do you:
- HAVE THE FACILITIES FOR WHELPING
AND RAISING A LITTER PROPERLY?
You need a
warm, quiet,
secure area, easily
cleaned, for properly confining
and caring for a litter
of eight, ten or twelve fast-growing puppies
while they are with their
mother, and a similar,
larger
area for use after
weaning.
- HAVE THE TIME TO DEVOTE
TO THIS PROJECT? Time
to take or
send a bitch
for breeding,
sit up for hours
during
whelping, and hand-raise
the litter if the bitch is unable
to? Time
to buy and prepare food,
feed, and clean up four or five times
daily?
Time to
go to the
veterinarian for
check-ups,
inoculations, and with
a sick dam or puppy? Time to scrub
floors and
pens,
clean up
feces and urine, and
give medication?
Time to individually
socialize each puppy daily? Time to answer
phone
calls, talk
with prospective
buyers,
and answer
the same questions over
and over again? Time for all the
paperwork
required,
including typing accurate
pedigrees, health records, care instructions,
records of sales, and
so on?
- HAVE THE MONEY TO
PUT INTO THE PROJECT?
Can you afford
to pay the
stud fee,
inoculations and veterinary
care
for the bitch and puppies,
as well as other expenses?
What
if the bitch has problems
that necessitate a
caesarean section?
What if the
puppies die? What if
the bitch dies, or
cannot raise the puppies?
Can you afford to feed
and provide veterinary
care for
two or three four-month-old
puppies
that
didn't sell?
Can you afford to
refund the purchase
price on a puppy that proves
to be unsound
or unsuitable?
CONSIDER YOUR DOG'S
QUALITY
Is your dog truly
an outstanding
representative of the breed?
Pretty, friendly
and
smart is not
nearly enough.
- TEMPERAMENT.
Your
dog must be absolutely
sound
and stable, with
a personality
and disposition
appropriate
for the
breed.
Shyness, aggressiveness,
gunshyness,
lack
of retrieving
ability
or trainability,
and hyperactivity
are all
reasons not to breed,
regardless
of other
problems.
- BREED
TYPE
AND QUALITY.
Your
dog must be structurally
and
functionally
sound,
with
conformation characteristics
appropriate
for
the breed. An experienced,
knowledgeable
exhibitor/breeder
can
assist
in the evaluation
of
your dog's adherence
to
the
Breed
Standard.
- SOUNDNESS.
Your
dog
should
be
tested
free
of
certain
genetic
defects,
as
should
the
proposed
mate.
Knowledge
of
the
status
of
parents,
grandparents,
siblings,
etc.
with
regard
to
genetic
testing
is
also
desirable.
HIPS
should
be
properly
X-rayed,
and
the
X-rays
submitted
to
the
Orthopedic
Foundation
for
Animals
or
PennHIP
to
be
read
as
free of
hip
dysplasia.
HEARTS
should
be
examined
by
a
board-certified
cardiologist.
EYES
should
be
examined
annually
by
a
board-certified
veterinary
ophthalmologist
and
be
free
of
hereditary
cataracts,
progressive
retinal
atrophy,
and
any
other
eye
anomaly.
ELBOWS
should
be
properly
X-rayed
and
the
X-rays
submitted
to
the
Orthopedic
Foundation
for
Animals
or
a
board-certified
veterinary
radiologist,
to
be
read
as
free
of
elbow
dysplasia.
Any
inheritable
defects,
including
but
not
limited
to
retained
testicles,
overshot
or
undershot
jaw,
congenital
heart
defects,
recurrent
skin
problems,
thyroid
deficiency,
immunological
problems,
orthopedic
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